Michael and I spent some time in Rome this month.
A chance to visit once again this beautiful, historical and romantic city.
I’ve put together some photos here of some of the stunning scenes we came across, and below, a few thoughts about what it was like there, of what we saw, of things that went wrong, of hearing a story of a woman at the confessional, and a few beautiful quotes of Michelangelo about his work. I hope you enjoy this too, if you get to read it …
And just to mention that on the feedback of my brother, I’ve set the speed slightly faster with these photos, and also, brought the couple of photos of Michael and me forward in the line-up so you get to see us a bit earlier :) (thanks Markus! :) ox)
I hope you enjoy the photos, and they give a sense of the beauty and history of this ancient city.
Birgit xo
***
Rome, September 2011
So much of being here points you in the direction of God and of faith, bringing together a lot of what I love – this spirituality, the art and sculpture, so beautiful; the classical history, the food and the wine, and the intense Italian sun!
The sun has to be mentioned, this constant, often overpowering, but truly lovely part of being here. Every morning, I pull back the curtains and open the shutters, and every morning the sky is the same – hard blue, and intense bright sun. Stunning. The end of summer, but over 30 degrees every day – even into the night! And I wonder about June and July, wow. Soaking in the last of this beautiful summer here, before the darker months of winter in London.
The Vatican, this city within a city, is the highlight for me. This sovereign-city state, an enclave within high stone walls. The smallest country in the world. I so love it here. St Peter’s especially. It’s quite overwhelming in this place. For a lot of reasons. The sheer scale of it, to begin with. You walk in, and you look up, and it’s as if you’re reduced to nothing in the wake of these domes and this ceiling embossed with gold that reach so high above, and go on and on. From that moment, you get a sense of the designers of this basilica aspiring to heaven itself, and a sense of what they were saying about the magnitude and the awesomeness and the majesty of God, and in light of this majesty, our own relative insignificance.
St Peter’s for a second time, Sunday morning. There’s a bit of a story of how this came to be, but the short version involves losing some very beautiful photos of inside the Vatican, after of an afternoon of everything going wrong with camera batteries and iPhones, I hate thinking about it. But in spite of losing these pictures, these things really have a way of working out. I keep thinking of God and His providence in our days with little things like this, and how He promises to turn all things around for our good (Rom.8:28), because I ended up being there again, and St Peter’s on a Sunday morning is even more beautiful than I could have imagined! Different Masses taking place in different chapels inside the basilica (there are 11 chapels within, and 45 altars!) and so the whole place filled with the fragrance of incense, the echo of hymns being sung in far-away corners, the whole experience was very evocative and beautiful and heightened by all of this, so in the end, I was really thankful at how this all worked out!
The presence of the clergy, the priests and bishops and nuns, was obviously greater too that morning. There was a chapel in one part of the basilica with confessional boxes all around it. Confessionals with priests who spoke Italian, and with those who spoke English too. I was standing there taking photos and there was a woman from North Carolina beside me speaking very loudly to her friends with her, about her experience of confessing to the priest. It was really kind of touching in a way to hear her speak of her conversation with him. That she had intended to confess about being selfish, and that she wanted to be closer to God, and that as the conversation unfolded, the priest asked her about her life, and where she was from, and they spoke of her broken marriage, and how she was living with a man now. The thing was that the priest seemed to be both deeply compassionate and yet uncompromising of the areas of her life that went against God’s will. He was pretty direct about some of her choices by the sound of it, and said, “I can bless you, and pray for you, but I cannot offer you absolution at this time because you are not living in accordance with God’s Law. If you would like to know how to live according to God’s Law I can tell you …” and far from this offending her, or hurting her, she seemed relieved, elated actually. “How priceless was that advice?” she said to her friends, “How good was the direction?! And he’s right, you know.” And then her friend wanted to confess too. “Just say you’re selfish,” she was saying to this friend, “go on,” she said, “it has helped me so much!”
The genius of Michelangelo was another thing that really made an impact. So much of his work is not only in St Peter’s, but also obviously, the Vatican Museum culminating in the paintings of the Sistine Chapel itself. His brilliance, his dedication, and how prolific he was, almost seem beyond words. Four years to paint this incredible ceiling, alone. In fresco, with all the challenges he would have faced with this method, and in real physical discomfort all of that time, standing and tilting his head upwards, painting overhead! There is this picture I took of a little stick diagram I came across that I liked, showing what this must have been like for him in terms of posture, being bent backwards! Four years of this! Incredible. And from this, we have the iconic painting in the centre of the ceiling depicting Genesis, of the hand of God reaching out and giving life to Adam … And the Pietà, displayed behind glass in St Peter’s, after a previous attack upon it, this exquisite and tender sculpture of Mary holding the body of her crucified Son, in her arms. Michelangelo’s first sculpture, completed at the age of 24!! It’s astounding. How he captured the expressions, the limpness in Christ’s body, the detail of His sinew, the folds of the linen of Mary’s robes – from a slab of marble! And this is what he is quoted as saying about it,
“In every block of marble I see a statue as plain as though it stood before me, shaped and perfect in attitude and action. I have only to hew away the rough walls that imprison the lovely apparition to reveal it to the other eyes as mine see it.”
How beautiful, is that?
That he has eyes to see the beauty in it from the beginning. That it is his life’s work to set that beauty free, in a way that we can see too. That kind of vision, that kind of ability, that kind of commission, is without question, God-given to my mind. And this seems to be reflected in Michelangelo’s own view of his work in another quote I came across of his,
“Many believe – and I believe – that I have been designated for this work by God. In spite of my old age, I do not want to give it up; I work out of love for God and I put all my hope in Him.”
That’s the end of my journal extracts for Rome, but also to mention …
In the photos, you’ll also see images of the Colosseum echoing of its awful history as crowds filled the tiered stands to be entertained by gladiators fighting to the death, or prisoners being set upon and mauled by wild animals brought over from Africa, several at a time, and where Christians too, were tortured and martyred. There are photos of the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, the Spanish Steps by night, and the wonderful Trevi Fountain, of Neptune, the god of the sea in Roman mythology, pulled by sea-horses and guided by mythological sea-creature, tritons. And then there are general images, impressions as we walked around the city, the narrow, cobbled alleys, lined with little shops and trattoria, and other parts of the city too, how you so often just stumble across the ancient remains of a forum, or a temple! There’s some of pasta and wine too :), and also a lot of evening scenes, as the city and the restaurants and the atmosphere, really came alive at night.
Thanks for reading through to the very end, I hope this has given more of insight into some of what you see in the photos, and that these give a sense of beautiful Rome, and you enjoy them,
Birgit ox
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